Salt and Seasoning

Welcome to the first in a new series called ‘How Tos’ that I’ll be posting on here from time to time. For many years, I’ve shared recipes, but I recently realised that it might be helpful to also share the ‘why’ and the ‘how’ of how I approach the art of cooking; and the principles I operate by to elevate simple ingredients into super satisfying food. I believe that simple ingredients can do amazing things if you ask them, and that simple principles produce outstanding results if you use them. It is possible to improve the food you cook, get reliable results and freestyle flavour as if by magic when you know what you’re doing, and I’d like to share with you some tips on how to get there!

To kick this off, I’m starting with good old salt. It is an ingredient that many people don’t give a second thought to, but I put it to you that it is one of those 80/20 Paretto Principle things, where this little ingredient is responsible for a larger part of your success or failure than you care to imagine. I hope you enjoy this; please let me know what you think. I also posted a video about this on Instagram if you want to check it out and join in the conversation!

Salt really is the bedrock of building flavour. In two decades of a formal love affair with food and nearly a decade of coaching home cooks all over the world, I’ve observed that most people who are generally unsatisfied with the outcomes of their cooking are:

a) using the wrong salt
b) undersalting

There are a million different types of salt out there and it can be confusing to know which to choose. Here are my 3 favourite salts and the use cases I recommend:

1/A high quality all rounder:
Cornish Sea Salt is my all round favourite superstar, and I have loved this nonstop since about 2018 or so. Dynamic and enlivening for all dishes and purposes. Costs a bit more so I don’t waste it on boiling or brining where water will be thrown out.

2/A mineral rich accentuator:
Grey Celtic Sea Salt or Pink Himalayan Salt are great options. I always have a mineral-rich salt on rotation. Fabulous on baked goods, grilled meats, vegetables, compound butters, etc. Lovely nuance, adds dimension and some health benefits.

3/A basic task worker:
A standard supermarket Cooking/Table Salt for boiling, brining, etc and a Rock Salt in salt mill for sandwiches, salads and small spot seasoning. Tends to taste a bit sharper and can be one dimensional if used alone or at scale.

I also recommend improving your ability to season freestyle by pinching salt with your fingers, rather than using a mill or a spoon. It connects you to what you’re doing and trains you to build and trust your own instincts, which frees you up long term from reliance on recipes.

What’s your favourite salt, and where do you sit on the seasoning spectrum?

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